Thursday, October 25, 2012

Tank Cover & Front Skin ready for rivets

I finished the tank cover and I'm ready to pull rivets for the side skins and instrument panel top skin.  However, I will not pull the rivets in hopes that Santa will bring me some more instruments. It just seems to me that waiting till the very last moment to shut this area up is the best way to proceed.  I also want to work out my fuel pump locations and not having the side skins in place would also allow for more working area.  Here are a few photos.
 
Click on image to enlarge

 
 
 
 
The photo below shows I also installed my electical bus on the front side of bulkhead F2.
 
 

 
I have more photos in my photo album if you would like to view them.
 
Next I will be working on the tail feathers and writing my wish list to Santa.

Saturday, October 6, 2012

Finished installing fuel filler door.

I finished installing my fuel filler door today and I am quite satisfied with my creation and work.  Here are a few photos:

Click on image to enlarge
 
 
 
 
I was concerned that the door would not line up with the cover skin and in the corners it did not. However it was quite simple to bend the corners slightly with my fingers and thumb to get the door to match up nicely with the cover skin.
 
Next up is to finish installing the tank cover skin itself and then on to the skin that spans F2 to F4.

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Creating a Fuel Filler Door

If you remember, I created a fuel tank that would not fit under the tank cover skin and have the filler cap exposed as the plans call out for.  Instead I had to lower the tank and now have to create a door to expose the fuel filler cap. Here are a few photos of what I'm working on.
 
Click on image to enlarge
 
 
I settled on a 5"x5" opening in the shape of a "D".  I looked into using a DZUS or Camloc fasteners but they both require a relatively expensive specialized tool for inserting the grommets.  I bought a Hartwell H-5000-2 latch from eBay but once it arrived, I discovered I didn't have the necessary clearance between the tank cover skin and the tank for it to be used.  So I searched the internet and found a rotating, spring loaded latch that I thought would work for this application.  I found it at Granger and it came in three sizes.  The medium sized one is the one I purchased (part # 4RPY8) for about $10.00. Here are a couple of photos showing it in the open & closed positions.
 

 
This is what it looks like from the top.
 
 
As you can see, it has a very low profile as well.
 
I made the supporting shelf from two layers of .032 aluminum.  I had to use two layers in order to account for the thickness of the door hinge which was .032 as well. Once I got the two pieces shaped the way I wanted them to be, I used spray adhesive to hold the two pieces together until they could be riveted into position around the door opening. You should be able to see the two layers in the 1st photo above. Here are a some photos of the door temporarily in place.
 


 
Next  up is to drill and rivet the shelf and hinge to the tank cover skin then to finish the installation of the skin itself. The door will need a slight arch in it to match the curve of the skin.  Wish me luck on figuring this out.