Throttle & Trim Controls

I have been working on creating my throttle lever, pitch trim control and installing push-pull cables for the choke, carb heat and cabin heat. First, some photos of my throttle lever:

Click on images to enlarge 

 

I calculated where I should attached the Bowden cable to the throttle lever using some software trying to find the location that would give me just the right amount of cable travel. I might have over thought this, as I will not know if I got it right until I mount the carb and hook up the throttle cable to it. However, it would be easy to move the attachment hole or remake the lever if need be. I think I will also add a camp on the Bowden cable sleeve on the rear side of bulkhead F5 as I'm seeing some cable flex I wish to eliminate.

 

 

Next, I worked on creating a pitch trim control. I had seen a photo of someone else's control which was different from the plans control, so I set out to make mine similar to what I had seen.  Here are a few photos of what I came up with:

 

 

 

I searched the hardware store until I came upon the terminal lug pictured above. I found it in the electrical department. It worked perfectly for what I wanted to do. I put a screw through the mounting hole and secured it with a nut. I found a twist knob at the hardware store with female threads to match the previously mentioned screw. (Actually, I found the knob first and then the screw.) I needed to cover my slot so things didn't fall through it and asked my wife what item had enough plastic to cover the slot. Within seconds she answered, "A cooking spatula". Well, I found one at the grocery store and cut it down to fit my needs. I now can use this as an example of how I DO listen to my wife on occasion. A metal washer under the spatula strip gives additional strength.

 

I made my armrest top out of .020" aluminum. It should be fine, but If I was starting over, I would use .032" on this particular armrest. I can always make a replacement armrest top if this one doesn't hold up well from the sliding action of the control knob. Or I could reinforce it with a strip of .032" flush riveted to the underside.

 

If it's not obvious, you loosen the knob and slide it forward or aft to adjust your trim and then tighten the knob again.

 

NOTE: I will have to reverse the attach point at the elevator so that nose down is adjusted by sliding the knob forward.  This shouldn't be a big deal. If you are going to use this control, work this out in your mind before committing to it. Dave's plans built lever pushes the cable rearward when you push the lever forward. My control pulls the cable forward when the knob goes forward. (Your manual comes with a page of two photos with a heading of "Elevator trim tab rigging", but has no page number. The upper photo shows the Bowden cable attach tab pointing down. Mine will point up.)

 



Always something to do!

OK, so I was working on the horizontal stabilizer until I needed help with aligning the spar with the fuselage to drill some important holes. I wanted a particular friend to help, but he was busy. So, I put that project aside and began working on the interior armrests and panels.  Here are a few photos:

Click on photos to enlarge

 

 

 

 

 



There are more photos in my photo album on the right side of this page. Next I have to create the throttle and pitch trim controls.

 

Building up my Horizontal Stabilizer

Here are some photos of my horizontal stabilizer spar work. Trying to find the time to continue work has been a challenge, but we'll persevere.

 



Progress Update

I have been working on my horizontal stabilizer spars.  No photos just yet. Maybe yet this week.

Replaced My Wheel Axles

Just posting so you know I've been working on my project.  I replaced my wheel axles yesterday, as the originals had been recalled. Pretty straight forward installation. Most of my effort was concerning the cotter pin hole you have to drill in the threaded part of the axles to retain the castle nut. Not really a big deal, just time consuming as you have to jack the airplane up to remove the wheels and brakes. Then replace the axle and reinstall the wheel to locate the cotter pin hole. Then you have to remove everything and take the axle to the drill press to drill the hole. Then everything has to be reassembled. Then, repeat the process for the other side.

I'm now reviewing the plans to begin work on the horizontal stabilizer and elevator.  Hope to get something done on this next weekend.

Little League is Over. Back at it!

I finally got back to building my CX4.  I cut a hole in the forward sloping floor in front of the center spar so I can mount my Comm antenna. While I was at it, I created a heel step out of scrap aluminum angle so that it shares the bottom 3 screws to the cover. This heel step will enable me to catch it with my heel to allow me to use my legs to help me exit the cockpit.

Guys, this is a great location for the Comm antenna, if not the only location on the belly of the airplane, so cut this access hole BEFORE you install the forward floor panel. It would make it so much easier.

Power To The Panel

Click on image to enlarge

 

Continued wiring my panel.  I was able to bring online my Dynon D6 & my MGL E3. I still have a long way to go. The D6 comes with a remote compass that needs to be mounted somewhere behind the seat. I haven't even begun to wire my engine sensors.  Not having purchased an engine yet might have something to do with it.